A man with a twist – Le manifeste D’Hermès MRTW Autumn/Fall 2016

Fashion becomes a tricky and twisted concept when it comes to a stealth luxury house like Hermès. Hermès isn’t where you go for bells and whistles. So what happens when the house stages a fashion show? Yes, absolutely plethora of fantastic pieces here crafted in no doubt the very best of the best fabrics, without it necessarily screaming a brand. Something that every onlooker wants to know where or how is it done because it is so-good, so-catchy and so-expensive looking. Hermès producers of the world’s most hyped handbags which apparently as we saw earlier is a better investment than gold or stocks

Véronique Nichanian the brand’s artistic director of menswear has been nudging Hermès in a more nonchalant, casual, leisure direction for some time. Confronting materials, revisiting styles and inviting artists to bring their spark is what modern luxury means to the high priestess of Menswear. A firm believer on the innovation by blending different materials and construction of things she still prefers to stay on basic geometrical shapes. Her clothes are at once strong yet sober, luxurious yet stealthy, elegant yet easy going, even pairing suits with tennis shoes. Models thrust their hands deep into the pockets of their elastic-waist trousers, worn in the offhand manner of sweat pants.
Sneakers were always trending in most of their fashion shows but this time it was also heavy soled shoes offering a complete chic look. A pretty adventurous palette was used clashed turquoise, raspberry, putty and camel and of course the signature Hermes orange, naturally. Not exactly on trend, but this is one of, if not the, most exclusive luxury labels on the planet who will never abide by the rules set by so called mortal designers.

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Blousons, trenches and macs sported paneling that placed glazed calfskin alongside regular leather to striking effect. The high priestess often combined multiple textures in a single garment, fronting a black cashmere blouson in mink or adding a glossy sleeve here, a lustrous panel there, to handsome double-breasted leather coats. The fabrics are surprising, like the example of the calf leather lightly glazed and shining like a nylon. Silhouettes were measured for bulky fisherman turtlenecks and sweatshirts quilted with down feathers. The neck was protected by the high collar shirts, sweaters, or squares of twill rolled up.

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The show climaxed with this concept of “New Black” a run of chic topcoats, leather jackets and Alternatuxes (alternative to a prom tuxedo) all crafted in the colour black

Chez Hermès, Mr. Anybody is treated the same way as the very well-known rapper or musician, because the philosophy of Hermes is not to advertise through people who are very well-known. Their product speaks for themselves. An elegant man always needs to be decoded.

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After all if you’ve got the cash, Hermès will treat you just like one of its most famous clients.