Review: Mumbai’s newest restaurant Joshi House manages to pack Rajasthan’s regality, Santorini’s nonchalance, and immense homeliness in an adorable, airy mansion in Pali Hill


The phrase ‘We eat first with our eyes has taken a new meaning with Mumbai’s latest haunt, ‘Joshi House,’ nestled commodiously in Mumbai’s astir and iconic Pali Hill. Mumbai’s newest restaurant is stuffed to the gills in an edifice that has replaced the famous Pali Village Cafe. It now looks like a contemporary haveli and is an alluring antithesis that manages to give you the feel of savoring dish after dish in a regal Rajasthani setup; until you turn around and the sweeping white interiors give you a glimpse of Santorini. There are five distinct seating areas, making it tough to decide a spot where you’d like to enjoy your time and get the most Instagram-worthy images.

The all-white marble space exudes a certain kind of warmth and luxury reminiscent of the Havelis of Rajasthan

The owner, Suren Joshi, has aptly named the eatery after his family name as the place feels homely yet like a mini-holiday away from the grind of life that Bandra streets are a reminder of. “I want all my guests to feel like they have come to my home,” says owner and restaurateur Suren Joshi. He added, “This has been important to me for all my properties.” I took a seat on the upper floor, where the artistic, artsy walls first caught my attention and then the playful swiveling seats. Star architect Ashiesh Shah deserves a pat on the back for creating a space in the city that looks nothing like it.

The bohemian courtyard is flanked with fluffy red cushion-laden sofas and chairs that add a touch of color. Potted plants and an extending tree accompany the hand-carved pale marble balustrades.

He correctly states, “It feels like a very well-traveled, nomadic tastemaker’s home somewhere in Jaipur. I wanted to create something that looked like it has always existed—it should feel like the haveli has always been here, and I’ve just painted it all.” As you can judge by now, the interiors had us floored (pun intended) but was the food just as impressive and delicious enough to make us stay in this pretty place? Absolutely! The menu carries forward a similar bohemian taste combining a variety of cuisines from around the world.

Joshi House boasts a world cuisine menu, bringing signature dishes with a dash of nostalgia to its patrons.

My meal began with a refreshingly tantalizing young coconut ceviche from the ‘raw bar’ that brought forth the goodness of a chilled coconut dressing combined with jalapenos and green apple salsa on a hot afternoon. It managed to overpower my cilantro martini, which was pleasing but had nothing on this raw yet ravishing start to my meal. The sweet potato shammi chaat proved that healthy could be tasty, and the avocado salsa added that touch of pretense that Pali Hill uniquely is. The chefs at Joshi House seamlessly manage to take street food like chaat and kachori and turn it into fine examples of fine-dining dishes. The Kheema kachori is a treat for the tastebuds and ends the dilemma of street food is better than gourmet by getting you the best of both. The Moroccan chicken skewers perfectly balance the tanginess of their predecessors with a creamy spiced garlic toum.

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Joshi House has plenty of options ranging from Moroccan chicken skewers to a vegan Young Coconut and Heart of Palm Ceviche, Rajasthani Laal Maas Shanks, and Kheema Kachori. All delectable delights!

A large grilled fish herb aioli followed these eclectic and diverse small plates with buttered asparagus and a savior of a jalapeno herb aioli. If it’s flavor youre after, this dish is entirely avoidable. I instantly regretted my food choice though the luscious aioli did offer complete support in finishing the well-cooked, thick fillet of fish. The palak saag & truffle served with corn tortillas and chili oil also sounded better than it tasted. Yes, the main course was a dampener after a barrage of flavors the small plates brought on our table.

Joshi House caters to all kinds of tastes. There is subtlety in the grilled fish herb aioli, a stark contrast to the flavorsome kachoris and chaats.

Dessert saved the day, and how! If you are on a diet and don’t want to indulge in food, leave everything aside, have a few desserts from the menu, and call it a cheat-day! The pistachio ghevar is a revelation, especially for those who cringe at Indian sweets and pick a pastry instead. This will ignite a newfound love for traditional Indian desserts that you may have avoided owing to a saffron rabri cremeaux that will make the gods smile. The vegan creme caramel offers something to the health-conscious that they don’t easily find-taste! The coffee and coconut custard was an excellent way of ending a hearty lunch, leaving an intoxicating aftertaste of clear caramel. Joshi House will provide you with fond memories of a pleasant outing where you equally enjoyed your ambiance and food topped with endearing hospitality meted out by General Manager Ketan Upadhyay, who looks after everyone with equal attention and a smile. A must-visit!

Devraj Kalani and Aneek Kaur who handle the Bakery section completely reinvented the most delicious Ghevar and whipped up an unforgettable Vegan Creme Caramel.

Where: Plot Number 602, Dr Ambedkar Road, Pali Naka, Bandra West, Mumbai. For reservations, call: 9220081888

The luxe factor is:

8 Food
6 Service
9 Ambiance
6 Location
6 Noise-level
7
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