Some matches are made in heaven, and then there are those forged on Earth that watch aficionados will forever be grateful for. Case in point, the collaboration between two of the most influential designers in modern horology, Fabrizio Buonamassa of Bulgari and Maximilian Büsser of MB&F. A chance encounter between them led to the creation of timepieces so captivating they seem to momentarily suspend time itself. First came the MB&F x Bvlgari LM FlyingT Allegra in 2021, and now, their second collaboration takes shape as the Bvlgari X MB&F Serpenti.
If it weren’t named the Serpenti, one might not even recognize it as such. The redesign has dramatically reinterpreted the iconic timepiece, shedding its signature sinuous elegance in favor of a bold, automotive-inspired aesthetic. At first glance, it resembles a futuristic toy car on the wrist, loosely reimagining the Serpenti for men. However, its case design is actually drawn from the ornate Serpenti Misteriosi, whose serpent-like head served as the muse for this collaboration. Hundreds of sketches and dozens of 3D-printed prototypes later, the final design was born, a sculptural case, fully machined using 5-axis 3D milling and housing five sapphire crystals.
“At MB&F we specialize in ‘kinetic sculptures which give time’ so it was definitely our calling,” said MB&F’s Maximilian Büsser. “Nevertheless, the biomorphic design of this watch created enormous challenges in terms of the case but also the movement. The intricate case is entirely machined with 5-axis 3D mills and holds the five sapphire crystals which were not only extremely complicated to make but equally challenging to fit due to the curved nature of the case and the desire for a water resistance of 30 meters.”
The watch is powered by a manual-winding movement developed by MB&F. Instead of conventional hands, time reveals itself through the Serpenti’s hypnotic eyes. These domed indicators, made from wafer-thin aluminum, rotate with an almost hypnotic precision, the left eye completing a full cycle every 12 hours while the right one marks the minutes. As if staring into the soul of time itself, the Serpenti watches back, its gaze ever-shifting, its presence undeniable. At the heart of the design, an oversized 14mm flying balance wheel, beating at 2.5Hz, represents the creature’s brain, held in place by a striking three-dimensional bridge bearing the signatures of both brands.
Bvlgari and MB&F offer three distinct variations of this avant-garde Serpenti: grade 5 titanium with “blue eyes,” black PVD-coated stainless steel with “red eyes,” and 18K rose gold with “green eyes,” each limited to just 33 pieces. The titanium and stainless steel versions retail for $148,000, and the 18K gold version for $170,000.
