They say time and tide wait for none. While that may be true for the tide, time, thanks to watches, and iconic ones especially, does freeze and come back. The legendary Mercedes Gleitze Rolex Oyster is making a comeback exactly 100 years after it debuted in 1926.The heroic woman and the watch that made Rolex the brand it is, is hitting the Sotheby’s auction block. Known as the world’s first practical waterproof wristwatch, the Rolex Oyster was indeed put to the test when Mercedes Gleitze wore the timepiece on her Vindication Swim across the English Channel. Interestingly, for the swim, Gleitze suspended the Oyster on a ribbon around her neck to keep her stroke unimpeded. She loved the watch so much that after the swim, despite Rolex offering her other models, she continued to wear her “companion” Oyster.
Mercedes Gleitze made history as the first British woman to swim the English Channel on October 7, 1927. Her achievement gave Rolex the perfect opportunity to showcase the durability of its new waterproof timepiece. Visionary founder Hans Wilsdorf capitalized on this moment by publishing a full-page advertisement in The Daily Mail featuring Gleitze and the Oyster, marking one of the earliest and most successful examples of celebrity product endorsement.
The watch now heading to auction is believed to be the exact same Oyster Gleitze wore around her neck during her swim. Beyond its historical significance, it represents the very spirit of endurance, innovation, and pioneering ambition that Rolex has built its legacy upon.
At the heart of its brilliance lies engineering that was revolutionary for its time. The 1926 Rolex Oyster featured a hermetically sealed case with a screw-down crown and caseback, an ingenious design that kept out dust and water. This innovation transformed wristwatches from delicate accessories into robust companions for adventure, a philosophy Rolex still carries forward today.
Now, after a quarter of a century, the chance to get your hands on the iconic watch that has been across the length and breadth of the English Channel will come at Sotheby’s Important Watches Live Sale in November, with an estimate of $1.3 million. “The 1927 vindication marked a turning point for Rolex. From that moment forward, Rolex aligned itself with the pursuits of adventurers, athletes, and professionals operating in the most demanding environments on Earth. Gleitze’s Channel crossing, nearly a century ago, laid the foundation for what would become a legacy of tool watches built for real-world performance. The Oyster was instrumental in the transition from pocket to wristwatches, and the Mercedes Gleitze played an important role in this transition, rendering it one of the most significant wristwatches still in private hands,” said Sam Hines, Sotheby’s Global Chairman, Watches.
The Mercedes Gleitze Rolex Oyster will be offered at Sotheby’s Important Watches Live Sale, taking place at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Geneva on November 9.
