Sipping a superb wine on a luxury catamaran cruise as the Golden Gate Bridge glows above us in San Francisco Bay in the light of the setting sun is as cinematic a first evening on a visit to the Golden City in the USA as one would wish for. We tick off all the familiar sights — the infamous Alcatraz Island, Sausalito, and that stunning city skyline coming to life with approaching dusk — even as we are charmed by a sighting of the adorable sea lions at Pier 39 for the first time!
An appetite to explore
The much-anticipated dinner at Abacá, the Filipino-Californian restaurant at Fisherman’s Wharf by Chef Francis Ang and wife Dian Ang, that follows doesn’t disappoint. A menu that incorporates traditional family recipes and flavours and fresh, seasonal produce, has plenty of options even if one is vegetarian, as we are.
We whet our appetite with squash okoy (deep-fried fritters coated with a rice batter) and barbecue Brussel sprouts glowed up with a tangy yuzu marmalade and pineapple chili, before moving on to a hearty guisado served with smoked tofu, sugar snap peas, fava beans, and mung beans.
Staying in style
This time around, we have chosen the St Regis San Francisco, for its spacious suites, and convenient location that’s ideal for business as well as leisure. It’s in the South of Market Street or SoMa area, which is close to the international airport and the headquarters of several major software companies. It boasts many of the city’s museums too. In fact, the hotel itself is ensconced inside the St Regis Museum Tower, which has the Museum of the African Diaspora, celebrating Black history across three of its 42 floors.
Going back to our comfortable room, we look forward to a soak in the deep tub or the walk-in rain shower with their luxe Remède toiletries and a nightcap brought in by our affable personal butler before calling it a night.
SF sights, old and new
Waking up to the SF skyscrapers after a restful sleep, heading down to their all-day dining Astra for some excellent avocado-toast, we are fortified to hit the Presidio of San Francisco, a fortification that dates back to 1776 AD. It is a popular historical attraction and recreation centre now. Think 1500-plus acres of glorious views, grand buildings, museums, art and archaeological sites, a public golf course and great restaurants. We’d need a lot of time to explore its rich variety of hiking and biking trails, beaches, forests, and lake.
But this time, we are eager to check out the Presidio Tunnel Tops which opened in July 2022, which features scenic parkland and fabulous views of the Golden Gate Bridge. A pleasant break from the urban jungle.
A Michelin meal
An immersive California experience awaits us at lunch at the Michelin-starred Spruce with its formidable wine list and elegantly plated dishes made with produce procured from a private organic farm nearby. Just right for a crisp early summer day, but, we imagine, well curated for any other time of the year too.
Science meets beauty
Next, we visit the California Academy of Sciences, where the Steinhart Aquarium, one of the most biologically diverse and interactive aquariums on Earth, holds our attention for hours. With nearly 60,000 marine, terrestrial, and avian creatures spanning more than 1,000 unique species on display, the team also undertakes cutting-edge research for conservation. We are especially entranced by the magnificent glass dome that houses the Osher Rainforest, with temperatures and humidity that allow rich biodiversity of tropical flora and fauna. The multi-hued butterflies and birds are an absolute treat for the senses. Catch this before August 21, as it will close for maintenance until November 17, 2023, after that.
Art to our heart’s content
Meanwhile, the Dogpatch district beckons, where we get to see some incredible art initiated by the Minnesota Street Project. There are 15 independently owned and operated fine art galleries with multiple exhibitions located within the two enormous warehouses, so you will always find something to your taste that will feed your soul.
Ending on a golden note
We are tempted to feed our physical form too, especially when we see Besharam, the stylish vegetarian restaurant serving Gujarati fare by Chef Heena Patel on the premises. But we save that for another day as we already have a dinner date of mmm-worthy modern Moroccan scheduled at Mourad, in the newly renovated PacBell Building. Chef Mourad Lahlou and his team do the cuisine proud.
Our dinner companions relish the now-legendary duck Basteeya and the Striped Bass with a luscious red chermoula, served family style. The spectacular Marrakech Gold dessert by Pastry Chef Shayel de Leon is a fitting end to our time in Golden City, a delectable combination of hazelnut milk, lavender, turmeric, and yuzu. Our two days in this city have flown by in a whirl of wonderment, with sights, sounds, and tastes that have, yet again, made us realise how satisfying a vacay in SF can be.
San Francisco bucket list
Everything we did on this trip is much recommended. But, if it’s your first time in California, then here are some more must-dos…
Golden Gate Bridge | Golden Gate Park | Fisherman’s Wharf | Alcatraz Island | Legion of Honor | San Francisco Museum of Modern Art | The Walt Disney Family Museum | San Francisco Botanical Garden | Muir Woods national Monument | Painted Ladies | San Francisco Zoo | Point Reyes National Seashore | Napa Valley wine tour.
