It’s a scenic 90-minute drive from Bali’s Ngurah Rai International Airport to Amandari, winding through the highlands until you reach the wellness resort in the village of Kedewatan, perched on a promontory of the Ayung River Gorge. Standing true to its name —Aman meaning Peace in Sanskrit — the property that has been designed and created by the famous architect Peter Muller in 1989 is several beats away from the hustle and bustle of main Ubud as it has become today.
Traditional-style bouquets presented by girls from the surrounding villages greet us, as our ears get accustomed to the serene silence and their soft address of Ibu (for my wife) and Bapak (for me) — names that make us feel very welcomed. As Amansanties (as the staff are collectively called) steer us towards our Valley Suite, we are enchanted by the gurgling of the Ayung river nearby.
Amandari ‘suites’ us
Our recently renovated traditional Bali-style accommodation boasts a roof thatched with the local bamboo and grass alang alang weave. The expansive suite, with kamasan tapestries, coconut wood pillars and floor-to-ceiling windows, offers gorgeous views of the valley. When we kick off our shoes and lie down on the king-size bed with glee, our eyes travel to the beautiful Balinese painting overhead.
Aman guests value the chance to detox and disconnect and we are happy not to have digital distractions like a TV or Bluetooth speaker so that we can connect with each other and with nature. This is true luxury, we sigh happily. The outdoor bath, the twin vanities, the kitchenette stocked with local crisps and cookies, these are all simple yet sumptuous touches that remind us of Aman’s core mantra — luxury with a healthy helping of peaceful privacy and cultural immersion.
Some of the suites and villas offer private plunge pools, some have spectacular views of terraced rice paddies, and each of them is built with the same sensibilities of sustainability and a close kinship with nature and local practices.
Exquisite experiences
Indoors to outdoors, be it morning, noon, or night, Amandari brings us several special moments. The sun loungers in the balcony encourage us to bask in nature. The mornings are especially blissful, soaking in the fresh air and spotting a variety of birds. I’m lucky to catch the blue flash of the wings of a Java Kingfisher.
Breakfast is just a few steps down, served a la carte under another stylishly thatched roof facing the lush green valley. Avocado toast and Balinese coffee in this sylvan setting with the sounds of the Ayung river dancing as you smile into each other’s eyes… you couldn’t ask for a more romantic experience.
Afternoon tea is another highlight of our stay. Prepared by Balinese women from the area, the spread is a splendid assortment of the sweet and savoury with a touch of regional flavours, that is perfectly complimented with locally brewed tea and coffee. Poolside dinners resonating with the tunes played on the Rindik (a set of xylophones using different lengths and sizes of bamboo) are magical as well.
Everything Balinese and beautiful accompanies us throughout our stay. We are gifted hand-woven fans and temple sarongs (something that originated at Amandari and has been emulated by Balinese resorts ever since!). Even the turndown service at night is often laced with ancient Balinese bedtime stories and sometimes, a humorous touch in the form of a papier mâché rooster placed by the bedside by way of apologising for the noise of the real-life over-active birds that crow in the surrounding villages through the day!
Amandari has always made it a point to include the locals in many ways and give back to their rich culture. They provide space and a teacher for local youth to learn Balinese dance, and to play the Rindik. Many of them end up working at Amandari later in life. Most of the food ingredients are sourced locally. And all those gifts we receive during our stay? They’re made by local artisans too. In fact, the very construction of the resort was planned by Muller in such a way that it doesn’t obstruct the locals from visiting and conducting traditional ceremonies for the deity located inside the property.
The ultimate unwind
The first hotel in Bali to have an infinity pool, Amandari’s curvaceous pool has taken inspiration from the terraced rice paddies of the region. A swim in this emerald oasis allows urban stress to slip away, leaving your mind, body, and spirit open to rejuvenation.
The spa, which has open-air therapy cabanas surrounded by lotus ponds, is a revitalising retreat. Their signature spa journey features a full body exfoliation using black rice and cinnamon, a body wrap of mineral-rich volcanic clay, a therapeutic head massage, finishing with a Balinese Melukat purification ceremony. We enjoy a session on intuitive healing, which has become very famous after the Julia Roberts-starrer Eat Pray Love, in which she visits a Balinese healer for it. My healer is reiki master Andre, who asks me a few questions, and correctly assesses pressure points in my life and suggests some practices to help me eliminate them and heal myself. This does leave me more relaxed and refreshed than I expected.
Bali high!
What’s memorable about our stay though, despite the scintillating beauty and the sheer serenity, is the sense of belonging that we experience. Everyone knows our names, and our itinerary, and are very responsive when we have a query. The conversations feel very natural, and the smiles never forced. And while we never really see the Aman Ninjas who are constantly at work behind the scenes while we relax in our cocoon of comfort, we are grateful for their attention to every detail in caring for us. This personal touch and seamless service is what sets Amandari apart from any other luxury resort.
The Valley suite costs $1350++ per night and comes with complimentary airport transfers. The Woodward Geneva is located in, Jl. Raya Kedewatan, Kedewatan, Kecamatan Ubud, Kabupaten Gianyar, Bali.
Note – The writer was hosted at the Amandari Bali, but all the opinions expressed herewith are his own.
