This luxury resort off Krabi is deeply ensconced in nature, even as it offers secluded beaches, gorgeous villas, infinity pools, memorable meals, and exciting activities.
I’m floating in sheer bliss. The water in my private pool is the perfect temperature. The sky above is the exact shade of blue I love. When I languidly flip over and go to the infinity end, a vast vista meets my eyes. Almost 80 metres above sea level, I can see swathes of tropical forest heading down the hillside to meet the sandy beach. I’ve swum in many luxe pools, but few infinity pools truly give you a sense of infinity like this one.
It’s part of my Hillside Ocean View Private Pool Villa in the Pimalai Resort & Spa, Koh Lanta’s first super luxury resort that first opened two decades ago and is still THE place to stay if you’re on this gem of an isle off Krabi in Thailand. Nestled within 100 acres of lush jungle along the gentle slopes of a hill, it meets the secluded 900-metre stretch of pure white sand of the Kantiang Bay below.
Villa life
My one-bedroom villa (they also have larger two- and three-bedroom ones), all of 204 sq metres, is designed almost like a house. The buggy from reception stops at a little gazebo which leads down to the main gate. An open sala is at the heart of this villa, with a shaded day bed facing the private infinity pool. Two fish-shaped fountains on either side lend it old-world charm.
Off to the left is a sliding door that opens into the spacious living area, complete with its own bathroom and shower. Beautiful furniture, state-of-the-art gadgetry, and an extremely well-equipped kitchen (coffee and tea paraphernalia as well as cooking utensils, a four-burner stove top, a microwave, toaster, a full-size refrigerator) segue into a lovely outdoor patio, perfect for long chats as shadows lengthen into dusk. On the other side of the pool is the sleeping area. A gorgeous four-poster bed and ceiling reminiscent of a ship’s woodwork, romantic lighting, an ample bath, a generous dressing area, twin vanities, a shower cubicle and en suite… all come together to create comfort at every step. Past the blinds, another door that slides open to relaxing sun loungers and the same fabulous view. Everything in the villa feels plush and new and yet traditional and timeless. This delightful dichotomy epitomises Pimalai for me.
Where the dining is fine
For example, when I see the Rak Talay Beach Bar & Restaurant for the first time, I’m struck by how contemporary this casual beachside space is, with its stylish cabanas and a stylised boat indoors. Focusing on the most sensational seafood, both Thai and international, it’s a great introduction to Pimalai’s accomplished culinary chops. And it has a fantastic vibe come sundown as well.
The assurance continues at the Seven Seas Restaurant, which services guests staying in the Hillside Estate where my villa is located. Western cuisine is at the forefront at this beautiful hilltop restaurant with the most splendid view, but over many magnificent meals I realise that they do a lot of ‘specials’ and theme nights to add variety to the cuisine. Even at breakfast, there’s plenty of regional fare, including freshly fried Thai ‘doughnuts’ of sorts called Patonggo that are served with the most delicious pandan sauce.
Afternoon tea at Pimalai Heritage is another case in point. While the very concept of an elaborate teatime feast is as colonial as it gets, the dainty dishes and types of tea served bring you delicious Thailand on a platter. Quite literally! The décor here is tropical luxe, with exposed wooden beams, comfortable couches covered in light linen, and plenty of daylight streaming in to showcase the fascinating photographs of the making of Pimalai. As can be expected, the sunset from this spot is beyond spectacular.
After dark, it’s time to adjourn to the adjoining Pimalai Heritage Bar. Looking like it belongs in a film, it’s where the beautiful people gather for a chat and a cocktail. For the wine connoisseur, they even have a temperature-controlled wine cellar, where you can slip in to have a chat with the resident oenologist and see some of the rare bottles that make their shelves proud. This is where they host tastings and other special events.
Au naturale
The well-designed spa reception has been created to blend with its natural surroundings. I get to choose between the aromatics presented in little blue ceramic pots, each one beautifully named – intention, respect, clarity, meditation, and patience – and one that simply contains the best elixir, organic coconut oil! After a rejuvenating therapy in my own separate hut, I am led to the relaxation area for some hot herbal tea and the soothing sound of flowing water.
In fact, at Pimalai, you’re never far from nature. Be it spotting swinging macaques (monkeys) and lounging monitor lizards or being enchanted by the variety of birdsong while getting an aromatic massage therapy at the serene spa, sequestered away in the midst of the forest. The family that has owned the land for more than four decades has ensured that it stays green and true to Thai flora and fauna. This deep-rooted passion for introducing young and old guests to a more natural existence is commendable. A number of sustainability and eco-centric programmes quietly run in the background, making sure your visit is as green as the resort’s environs.
Feeling active?
As much as there is to do at Pimalai – with its own beaches and beachside villas, multiple swimming pools, sprawling gardens, classes that range from Thai cooking to Thai boxing (I tried them all!), and water activities such as kayaking, bodyboarding, windsurfing, paddleboarding, beach football, volleyball and petanque, sailing boats such as Hobbie wave and Laser from the resort’s own Beach Hut – exploring Koh Lanta is a lot of fun too.
Mangrove magic: The Thung Yee Pheng Mangrove Forest is rich in biodiversity, from mangroves to crabs and several bird species. I’m here towards the end of the Green Season (May to October) so there’s some rainfall. The mangroves are extra lush, but I don’t get a chance to do the tour of the forest on a gondola boat as planned thanks to the strong winds. During the tourist season (November to April, and especially in the cooler and drier months between December and March), I’m told that gliding through those calm waters can be most therapeutic. Just strolling along the wooden walkways and seeing the locals living on their boats is a unique experience here.
Water wonders: While the wide array of water activities mentioned above are all available right on the resort’s beach, you can also head out to explore some of the other beaches and islands on the archipelago. Their popular Fabulous Koh Rok excursion takes you swimming and snorkelling in the clear water around an enchanting island. You could spend the afternoon scuba diving in the cerulean sea or do a snorkelling and sunset cruise later in the day. A full-day visit to Koh Talabeng and Bu Bu Island by long-tail boat is also quite thrilling, with opportunities to swim, hike, kayak, and explore limestone caves.
Old-world charm: Koh Lanta has had settlers for over 500 years. The nomadic Chao Lay people, who are known as Sea Gypsies, were the first to arrive, followed by Muslim Malay immigrants about 300 years ago (they called themselves Orang Lonta, meaning People of Lanta), and finally, Chinese merchants more than a century back. The presence of these three communities gives the inhabitants of the 52-island archipelago a richly multi-ethnic identity.
When I visit Lanta Old Town, which was originally named Sri Raya, its status as an important trading port in the olden days isn’t immediately evident. But the lilt of languages lingers on the sea breeze, giving me a hint of its past. Today, it’s a fishing village with charming little shops and old houses leaning over the sea on their spindly stilts. A tiny black kitten with the biggest green eyes lures me into a colourful studio named Malee Malee. The owner, an accomplished artist, sits sketching an elaborate hibiscus under a spotlight, oblivious to the world until I ask him permission to click a photo. Then, wearing crab-shaped slippers and a toothy grin, he shows me around the quirky space filled with quirky objects. Many illustrations and sculptures have a decidedly feline theme. Apparently, Malee’s wife is as cat crazy as I am! And even if you aren’t shopping for several little treasures here will be worth
Later, a fabulous al fresco meal at Shine-Talay built over the waves shows me the variety that Thai food offers and how it’s all so freshly prepared and delicious, even in an affordable eatery. These simple pleasures are an interesting contrast to the luxury of the resort and a great way to spend the evening before getting back to the paradise that is Pimalai.
