Rolex has revived one of its most intriguing vintage designs with the new Perpetual Padellone, an elegant annual calendar inspired by the rare Ref. 8171 produced in the late 1940s and early 1950s. Launched in Milan on September 15, 2026, the 39 mm watch combines a moonphase display with an instantaneous calendar mechanism that changes the day, date, and month simultaneously at midnight. The original Ref. 8171 was a triple-calendar watch produced in very small numbers and became known among collectors as the “Padellone,” Italian for “large frying pan,” a nickname inspired by its unusually wide 38 mm case for the era. Vintage examples have recently reached prices ranging from the mid-six figures to more than $1 million at auction, depending on case material and condition.
A modern interpretation of a legendary Rolex
The new Padellone retains the character of the original while introducing a thoroughly modern case and movement. Its 39 mm case measures 12.2 mm thick and features a domed upper bezel with delicate fluting on its lower section, while the dial combines a grained center with a fine satin finish around the perimeter. Rolex has released two 18K Everose gold versions with intense white dials, one paired with a brown alligator leather strap and the other with the seven-link Settimo bracelet first introduced on the Perpetual 1908 in 2025. The third version is crafted from 950 platinum and features an ice blue dial with a matte black alligator leather strap. The watch is water resistant to 50 meters and retains four correctors on the case band for adjusting the day, date, month, and moonphase.
At the heart of the Padellone is the new in-house Calibre 7190, an evolution of the Calibre 7135 introduced with the Land-Dweller in 2025. The movement operates at 5 Hz, or 36,000 vibrations per hour, and provides approximately 66 hours of power reserve. It incorporates Rolex’s Syloxi silicon hairspring, ceramic balance staff, and silicon Dynapulse escapement, while the transparent case back reveals Rolex Côtes de Genève decoration and a cut-out yellow-gold oscillating weight. The movement is covered by 30 patent applications, with two exclusive to Calibre 7190.
An annual calendar built around the moon
Unlike the original Ref. 8171, which required manual correction after shorter months, the new Padellone is an annual calendar that automatically distinguishes between 30-day and 31-day months. Rolex’s patented Haplos system uses an additional carrier finger and an annual lever to perform this calculation, leaving the wearer to make only one adjustment each year when February turns to March.
The day and month appear through two apertures below 12 o’clock, while a blue hand tipped with a crescent moon indicates the date around the dial’s outer circumference. At 6 o’clock, a fully visible blue enamel disc presents the moonphase, with meteorite used for the full and new moon representations and dark blue PVD applied to the latter.
The moonphase mechanism is one of the watch’s most distinctive features because it does not simply hide and reveal part of a rotating lunar image. Instead, the full and new moons move continuously throughout the 29.53-day lunar cycle, with each representation aligning in turn with a triangular indicator above the disc. Both celestial bodies feature pad-printed faces, echoing the whimsical moon display associated with the vintage Padellone.
The watch carries Rolex’s Superlative Chronometer certification, which in 2026 added testing for magnetism, reliability, and sustainability alongside existing requirements for precision, water resistance, self-winding, and autonomy. The Padellone is not a limited edition, although Rolex says it will be rolled out slowly in limited quantities, with prices set at $59,000 for the Everose gold model on leather, $72,000 for the Everose gold model with the Settimo bracelet, and $66,200 for the platinum version on leather.
