Seasoned designer Gaurav Gupta speaks to Luxurylaunches about new jewellery line

Gaurav Gupta is name is synonymous with pioneering design techniques and ravishing silhouettes. His design sensibilities set him apart from the rest almost immediately. Today you know a Gaurav Gupta creation  by merely looking at it; that’s how well the audience has embined his design culture. Gaurav Gupta has undoubtedly been one of the most innovative flag bearers of avant-garde couture in India. Over 15 years of merging indigenous Indian construction and embellishing techniques with his idea of the future, Gaurav has delivered and sustained a world that is Indian at its core. The face of India bridal fashion has forever been changed all thanks to this one man and now its extension will be celebrated by brides all around. Gaurav Gupta, has recently launched his first ever jewellery line- Gaurav Gupta Occasions Fine Jewellery. Showcased on the ramp for the very first time at FDCI India Couture Week, this line consists of 50 special pieces handmade and created with precious stones and high-quality diamonds in carefully and specially crafted white gold mould. To learn more about what went behind this venture and the designer’s sentiments read the very interesting tete-e-tête-à-tête below: 

Luxurylaunches: Congratulations on your new dazzling venture, what can one expect from occasions? 

Gaurav Gupta: Thank you.

Jewelry has a technical side to it, in terms of how it molds and its overall form and for that, I am happy that our partners Occasions Fine Jewellery are able to translate our aesthetic into reality. We have followed a very intense process, where the highest quality diamonds have been cut in our own shapes, to be set in a truly couture manner- sculpted and surreal. 

For example, the special Liberation necklace is designed in the shape of wings interwoven together, with earrings where each feather is individually stylized to project the movement of a bird gracefully taking flight. Each piece of this necklace was set under a microscope, a delicate combination of rose-cut and full-cut diamonds- 8000 pieces in all, created over 8 months. The highlight of the construction is that every feather is scooped from the backside to keep the necklace light on the wearer. These are very painstaking processes, and therefore hard to follow or copy.

The result has been styled like our Forest collection ear cuffs, which are fashioned after exotic creepers and vines, and the ‘Infinity Collection’, which uses special-shaped diamonds, of which the sculpted statement rings are a highlight.

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LL: Like your couture collections can one expect a constructed design theme in jewellery as well? 

GG: Gaurav Gupta Occasions Fine Jewellery is an interpretation of my sartorial creations and couture language. We wanted to break the industrial norm of artistic jewellery being stiff. We wanted something lightweight and flexible that allowed movement – agreeable to what the modern Indian bride is looking for these days. Gaurav Gupta Occasions Fine Jewellery is technically far more superior to what one would see in the market as we have evaluated every piece at different stages and created and recreated moulds as well as shapes of the pieces.

What makes this Jewellery truly couture is its unique collaborative approach, wherein each diamond is individually cut according to our brand’s signature sculpting style, giving it the form and feeling of timeless art. The idea was to create jewellery for the confident, fearless and strong women who revel in the sense of elation and liberation.

LL: What do you prefer gold/metal jewellery or diamonds/ studded jewellery? 

GG: It is not about my preferences but what my brides are looking for. Brides these days want to be innovative with their wedding looks. The traditionally set jewellery, with little to no scope of experimentation, does not excite the modern brides as much. . They want one-of-a-kind pieces which not only sets them apart from the rest of the crowd but also makes a statement. Thus, Diamond jewellery has a lot of scopes to explore, play and experiment with different patterns, settings, cuts and stone along with a myriad of styling options.

Each piece of this necklace was set under a microscope, a delicate combination of rose-cut and full cut diamonds- 8000 pieces in all, created over 8 months. The highlight of the construction is that every feather is scooped from the backside to keep the necklace light on the wearer. The brides are sure to make a mark on their wedding way while wearing such pieces.

LL: What are your predictions for the jewellery trends in 2020? 

GG: I think wearable, yet delicate diamond couture jewellery is one of the biggest jewellery trend this season. One should invest in an all-cut diamond set with matching earrings. Since the bride is photographed non-stop during the festivities directing attention to her face and neck with diamond jewellery is a great way to make her eyes sparkle and bring her look alive. Having said that, timelessness will always be the biggest trend every season.

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LL: What occasions does occasion jewellery cover? 

GG: Mostly, this couture jewellery is designed for the brides. However, we do have some beautiful under stated yet uniquely glam pieces which women can pair it up with even a classic pant-suit silhouette. For a Sangeet or a Cocktail, our couture jewellery is extensible to suit the needs of the brides and the bridesmaids.

LL: What is your favourite occasion to dress someone in occasion jewellery? 

GG: My jewellery can be paired very well with both Indian and western couture. So one can wear it anywhere from a cocktail evening to a wedding ceremony.

LL: Your favourite ornament to work on from rings, earrings and necklaces?

GG: I think, diamond jewellery looks very flattering on Indian skin tones. It not only brings out our rich complexion but also compliments it really well. So for me it’s more about the stone and not any particular ornament. Each ornament has a characteristic of its own and massively contributes to the overall look.

LL: Which areas do you draw your inspiration from to design your jewellery collections?

GG: The inspiration for designing this line emanated from my obsession with nature and its beings and the beauty behind the flight and freedom of the birds, the elated, lush and mysterious depths of the forests, the exhilaration behind the feeling of infinity and liberation – these elements are the golden thread running through the entire collection which are imagined through the capsuled themes that capture my spirit and the distinct elements of Feather, Forest and Infinity. I have always loved jewellery and this was something which was always on the cards for the brand as a next step in direction of growth.

I wanted to give brides what they actually come seeking for – couture jewellery which is an extension of their true, authentic personality. Our diamond couture jewellery collection is perfect for a bride who is modern yet her personality is deeply rooted in the classic elements which define her.

LL: Your dream/ eternal muse? 

GG: Cleopatra

Where: Gaurav Gupta
52-56, VB Gandhi Marg, Kala Ghoda,
Fort, Mumbai, Maharashtra 400001
Phone: 022 2269 3433

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