Louis Vuitton has revisited its watchmaking origins with the launch of the Monterey, a limited-edition timepiece that revives the Maison’s first wristwatch from 1988. Originally designed by Italian architect Gae Aulenti, the first model, known as Montre I, was a quartz watch that reflected the brand’s early ambition to merge design and technology. Decades later, Louis Vuitton pays tribute to that spirit with a creation that combines the charm of the past with the precision of modern horology.
Built entirely at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, the Monterey preserves the distinctive round pebble-shaped form of the original, while refining every aspect through contemporary craftsmanship. Its 39 mm yellow gold case is polished by hand and fitted with a crown positioned at 12 o’clock, a nod to pocket watches that inspired the first Montre I. The lug-free design has been carefully updated for comfort and balance, and a discreet engraving of “1 of 188” sits beneath the strap, marking the rarity of the model, which is limited to only 188 pieces worldwide.
The centerpiece of the new Monterey is its dial, created using the centuries-old Grand Feu enameling technique. Crafted on a white gold base, layers of enamel powder are meticulously applied and fired at temperatures exceeding 800°C to produce a glossy, long-lasting finish. Each color on the dial is achieved through enamel paste rather than conventional ink, fired multiple times to achieve the raised, luminous texture of the black, red, and blue markings. The refined enamel surface is complemented by gold syringe-shaped hands coated in red lacquer and a thermally blued steel seconds hand, both echoing the original design from 1988.
At its core, the Monterey houses the in-house automatic caliber LFT MA01.02, developed by La Fabrique du Temps. The movement features sandblasted bridges, a circular-grained main plate, and an 18K rose gold rotor engraved with V-shaped notches inspired by the LV Monogram. Beating at 28,800 vibrations per hour, it offers a 45-hour power reserve and maintains the elegant reliability expected of a modern Louis Vuitton creation.
The Louis Vuitton Monterey is priced at around $53,000 before taxes and is available exclusively through Louis Vuitton boutiques. More than a revival of a historic design, it represents the brand’s full-circle journey from a fashion powerhouse to a serious watchmaking name, celebrating the legacy of Gae Aulenti’s design with the technical mastery and savoir-faire of modern watchmaking craftsmanship.
