An epic 1000-kilometer journey that winds through the mighty Himalayan range from India’s northern Jammu and Kashmir state to the stunning high altitude desert of Ladakh, is not the usual road trip. It comes packed with the adventure of negotiating challenging terrain like dry river beds, high mountain passes and hairpin bends. However, cocooned in a vehicle like the Land Rover Defender 110, this mountain marathon becomes a piece of cake, after all it has a 2-litre turbocharged petrol engine that generates 300bhp and 400Nm of torque. But the cherry on the cake is that even a newcomer to mountain driving like me could steer this car with absolute ease.
This five-day drive, ‘Defender Journeys’ conducted by Cougar Motorsport and Land Rover, India, is in fact a luxury trip with stops at top-notch hotels and luxury tents and curated coffee breaks in the midst of some of the world’s most spectacular settings.
Srinagar to Kargil on NH1
Setting out from the Kashmiri capital, Srinagar on the first day, we pass through beautiful towns and a Himalayan pass to the destination, Kargil. We are a group of 18 people in five Defenders. Pilot cars lead the way while an ambulance trails behind, adding to our sense of comfort.
The incredible vistas of a river gushing by and lofty green pine trees clothing the tall Himalayan slopes give a peek into why Kashmir is sometimes called India’s Switzerland. I become the DJ as the Pivi Pro sleek touchscreen infotainment system connects my iPhone to the Apple CarPlay.
The first landmark on this stretch is the lofty Zoji La Pass, which connects Kashmir with Ladakh at a height of 3583 meters. Negotiating the tough, winding terrain is a breeze in the Defender – after all, the vehicle is equipped with appropriate terrain buttons for driving on grass, gravel, snow, mud and sand. My co-driver uses the ClearSight Ground View which gives a 360 degree view of the road with the help of the 3D surround camera.
After a quick lunch, we stop at Kargil War Memorial, made in honour of Indian soldiers who lost their lives during the 1999 Kargil War between India and Pakistan. It’s a solemn visit that plugs one into the hostilities that these mountains have witnessed between the two countries. In fact, we cross a military convoy as we drive along.
Then comes a moment of excitement for me as I take the wheel. Sensing my nervousness because I’ve never driven in the mountains before, my co-driver advises me to stick to my lane and assures me all will be good. He is so right. The Defender’s 8-speed automatic gear literally pilots me on the smooth road and I realise how simple it is to drive this. I carry on till we reach the hotel.
Kargil to Thiksey in Ladakh
Covering a distance of over 200 kilometers on the second day, the journey, as emphasized by Ashish Gupta, Founder & Director of Cougar Motorsport, proves to be another spectacular Himalayan run.
Colourful prayer flags flutter at the highest point on the Srinagar-Leh highway, marking the transition into the Buddhist culture that we will witness in Ladakh. From the lavender flowers sprinkled in a field where we have a curated coffee break to the gorgeous moonscape at Hangroo Loops, a point with more than 20 hairpin bends, it’s a feast for the eyes. The topography is already turning desolate and brown, preparing us for our tryst with Ladakh.
From that point, instead of driving on the new highway, we opt for the old one despite the road’s not-too-good condition because of the gorgeous scenery along that route. In a car like the Defender, that is a no-brainer decision.
My fellow driver turns on the Gravel mode in the 4×4 vehicle so that we easily negotiate rougher roads and steep inclines. Yet again the surround view camera comes handy making it possible to avoid unexpected hurdles. The ability to raise the ground clearance by 145 mm helps thanks to the air suspension that is much needed when the roads are in a bad condition.
Lunch is in Alchi, a small village about 60km away from Ladakh’s capital, Leh, where we tuck into typical Ladakhi fare at Alchi Kitchen, that has shot into limelight as it is run by an all-women team.
It is again my turn to take the wheel and by now the car has instilled so much confidence in me that I do it like a pro. The steep mountains have given way to flatter terrain. As it gets colder, I turn on the heated mode of these comfortable leather seats and feel cosy soon. It is evening when I reach my destination, Thiksey, where I am greeted by a beautiful moonrise. The highlight of the evening is a spirited display of Ladakhi folk dances that plug one into the ancient traditions of the region.
Thiksey to Diskit in Nubra Valley
The next morning starts with a visit to the impressive 15th century Thiksey monastery, the white walls of its 12 storeys soaring into the sky with a touch of red on top. The largest in Central Ladakh, the Buddhist monastery is supposed to resemble the Potala Palace in Tibet and is famed for a 49 feet tall golden statue of Maitreya Buddha in the lotus position that goes up two floors.
Then the cars weave through narrow roads with ease to reach Khardung La, which at 5,359 meters, held the proud title of the world’s highest motorable road till 2021 when an even higher road built at 5,883 meters in Ladakh, Umling La, snatched that title. Still, to be able to drive till this point comes with bragging rights. The stop here is barely ten minutes because staying longer is not recommended due to the low oxygen level at this height.
Leaving the crowd of selfie obsessed tourists, we cross into the arid, cold desert in Nubra Valley. The terrain has changed. Cruising along sand dunes, it’s hard to imagine how the locals stay in such a bitterly cold place. Quite a few roads are under construction. This place is known for the double-humped Bactrian camels that are not as tall as the other camels. We end the day in the best possible way – sitting by a bonfire and stargazing in the incredibly clear sky.
Nubra to Pangong
This part of the journey is more adventurous as we go off-roading on a dry riverbed. It is not easy, but a vehicle like the Defender, takes care of much of the work. It is truly thrilling to drive through a stream and negotiate potholes and stones, something I had never done before. Wading through water is exciting and the Defender’s air suspension helps because the car gets raised. Craters, enormous cliffs, sand dunes and stone stacks captivate the eye.
But the highlight of that day or rather this entire trip is the jaw-dropping, gorgeous Pangong Lake. The breathtakingly gleaming, crystal clear blue expanse of the world’s highest saltwater lake lies in dramatic contrast to the brown, jagged mountains around. I just stand in front of it for 15 minutes and don’t take my eyes off this wonder. The lake lies partly in India and partly in China.
Pangong to Leh
It is tough to tear myself away from Pangong Lake but of course the last leg has to be done. When Ashish tells us to gear up for the most scenic drive ever, I silently wonder whether anything can be more stunning, but a couple of hours later I am awestruck by the towering mountains, the cliffs and meadows with yaks grazing peacefully and a river gushing alongside. I guess that’s why the saying ‘save the best for the last’ is so apt. One spots several camouflaged military tanks in the area.
We clock in 1000km by the time we reach Leh and bid farewell to this car that became our soulmate during this memorable driving holiday. On this drive I’ve gone through all kinds of terrains – driven uphill, through gushing streams, on dry river beds and done it with aplomb because of the SUV.
The Land Rover Defender 110 starts at $61,000.
