The culinary adventure devised by Hotel Cafe royal continues as our taste buds are inhabited by the multi sensory dishes constructed by the world-renowned chef Ferran Adria’s protégée Aurelio Morales and the establishment’s own Andrew Turner. Aurelio heads Ramses in Madrid.
In the last coverage of the Domino Effect hosted by The Bohemians, I likened Andrew Turner’s creations to those founded by Ferran Adrià. So it was very fitting to see that the next instalment would be headed El Bulli’s own.
Entering the Domino on this occasion was very different to last- a lovely change for the less adventurous and eccentric of you, less so if you enjoyed the busy atmosphere cultivated by The Bohemians. Nevertheless, the classic Domino Club with touches of Rococo is a truly classy environment and very ideal for this type of gastronomic experience.
The drinks reception was held at The Oscar Wylde – which is such an extravagant piece of art and living history as it has played home to many extravagant celebrity events. The Hotel-made cocktails were complimented with lovely canapés and Iberico ham which captures the finest flavours of Spain’s famous charcuteries.
Matching the decadence of the Hotel Cafe Royal, needless to say, the plates and cutlery were Versace. Beautiful touch. The food was interesting, one must applaud the team for the accuracy of the execution – but I wasn’t convinced by the pairings of some flavours, although I value the audacity, I would class some of the dishes as ‘experimental’. Certainly an acquired taste.
The Confit Salmon and succulent Pork Belly were delicious and we repaired proficiently with matching drinks: Gazpacho and Apple Macaroon, respectively. I’m not one for Gazpacho though. The Turbot dish made a pleasant debut – but it was fairly excessive in its fishy aftertaste. I particularly enjoyed the emphasis on Chocolate and Arbequina Olive Oil and the White Chocolate filled with raw fish – a very adventurous dish which was preceded by a fine wafer stuffed with Smoked Sturgeon and Pink Salt. Chocolate, I found, compliments some meats favourably.
A class display of gastronomic innovation, sensitive presentation, surgical execution and bravado. Perhaps, I would’ve enjoyed more a simpler concoction of foods – but a pleasurable experience nonetheless.
Address : Hotel Café Royal
68 Regent Street, London W1B 4DY
Telephone +44 (0)20 7406 3333